A Day in the Life

The Alternative Chef

Story by Lynn Haley

A flip through the Food Channel reveals gourmets of every description, but in the alternative department, this chef has them beat by a country mile.

You Know That Old Saying - Don't Judge a Book by its cover? It’s one you’ll want to keep in mind if you get the opportunity to meet Jasmin Kobajica. He’s the executive chef at Edmonton’s Crowne Plaza Hotel (which houses the exclusive LaRonde restaurant), and he is a passionate advocate of regional cuisine with a mission to celebrate all that is unique about Canada’s culinary scene.

Aside from his eclectic appearance (he’s 6’4” and sports lustrous black curls that cascade towards his waist), he’s loaded with fresh (and what some might deem as quirky) perspectives about food and society in general.Nothing about his career path has been traditional and his journey from dishwasher to executive chef has included many unusual twists and turns—every one of which has provided rich fodder for his personal philosophy about life and the joy of food.

The only Canadian-born member of a family from Bosnia,Kobajica credits his intuitive creativity in the kitchen to his love of music and his mother’s spiritual sense. A jazz musician, Kobajica knew he would groove to a different tune early on. Right from the time he was, as he describes himself, ‘a shy little boy with a weird name’, he knew he had to be in a creative environment.“ I did take a stab at architectural drafting school,” he recalls. “It became pretty clear, pretty quick that I had a whole lot more fun drawing outside the lines.”

So how did the musician find his way from gigs to groceries? “I started as a dishwasher because I knew in that job I wouldn’t have to dress up or talk to people,” he laughs. “To my surprise, I found myself doing all kinds of things—from making salads to waiting tables. Somewhere along the way, I fell in love with the very thing I was trying to avoid—working with people!”

Not one to do anything conventionally, Kobajica knew hands-on learning was a better route for him than formal schooling.He successfully challenged his Red Seal (professional certification for chefs that is recognized worldwide) and then went on to earn his certification as a Foodservice Manager.

Regional Spice of Life

His four-year stint working at The Algonquin, a prestigious retreat in St.Andrews,New Brunswick, fired up his passion for regional cuisine.“Long before it became trendy, I worked with an executive chef who was intrigued with local products and the Maritime culture which celebrates family, friends and food at every opportunity.”

“We used local fresh foods to transform regional time-honoured recipes into New Age gourmet fare. To do it,we made it our business to work with Maritime farmers and fishermen to source the products (and learn the stories behind them) we needed.”

Kobajica transferred his Maritime experience into Western Canada. Today, he is a tireless champion of Alberta food products. “You know, Canada has a culinary culture every bit as spectacular as the French or the Italians,” he insists. “The enormous size of our country geographically, our incredible natural resources and our kaleidoscope of cultures makes for an extraordinary range of food experiences.”

While he is an ardent enthusiast of locally produced meats,Kobajcia acknowledges that smaller producers—especially those raising species like bison, elk, venison, lamb and goat—have a real challenge selling their animals in balance (for

“I like to think my playground is more than this restaurant,” he says. “I make a point of ensuring that Alberta meats and food products are used throughout this entire hotel—from the cafeteria to LaRonde.”

example selling a whole lamb—not just the racks). “Anyone can make a popular cut taste good,”he says.“It takes real skill to work with secondary cuts and create dishes that say—eat me now!”

To prove his point, he has instigated what he calls his ‘whole animal program,’where he buys the entire animal from the producer and then creates memorable menu items from every cut. And memorable they are—his creations, which are tested and enjoyed by his staff, are awardwinning signature dishes. “I like to think my playground is more than this restaurant,” he says. “I make a point of ensuring that Alberta meats and food products are used throughout this entire hotel—from the cafeteria to LaRonde.”

However, it’s more than buying locally that puts Koabjica’s passion for regional cuisine on a different plain. In addition to extolling the virtues of Alberta products by speaking publicly at conferences, meetings and events (something the shy kid has learned to tackle), engaging everyone from food-service colleagues to media and government policy makers, he’s developed a philosophy that makes regional cuisine a competitive business decision.

“There has to be sound economic incentive to grow a market,” he says.“It’s one thing to jump on the regional cuisine bandwagon—and many people have done it—short term. But, if you’re really serious about using local products and celebrating regional heritage, you have to think local in every aspect of your business—from how you build relationships with suppliers, train your staff, create recipes that honour the local heritage and finally how you market your menu.”And that, he adds, means building a culture of regional cuisine—for the long term.

“The regional cuisine movement is more than a trend—it’s a statement that Alberta and Canadian food products are on par with the very best in the world.”

In Touch With the Global Rhythm

On the subject of trends,Kobajcia is (not surprisingly) decidedly opinionated.He feels that anyone in the business of embracing trends better be in touch with society’s global rhythm. He does it by reading everything from The Economist to Rolling Stone. “You have to read, read and then read some more if you expect to know what’s happening globally,” he insists. “You will never be a trend setter in the food industry if you don’t know what’s going on in the world.” He’s convinced global events affect every aspect of the food business through trade policies, legislation and human behaviour.

He also believes the food industry has enormous power to affect positive change—worldwide.“ Food is the great common denominator,” he points out. “It binds cultures and continents together, and it creates opportunities for communication and economic growth. If I can use my buying power on a local basis to strengthen Alberta’s agricultural industry, I’m going to do it—every way I can.”

What does he think about the slow food movement? He doesn’t recognize it as a trend, because he thinks it is what eating should be anyway. “When you boil it down, slow food is really about friends and families taking the time to share a savory meal and banter about issues that matter.” (All whetted down, of course,with wines selected to bring out the best of both.)

And that, according to this alternative chef, is the spice of life.