Feather Your Nest

No longer just for holidays, birds of any feather offer a distinct, versatile option for summertime dining

- By Melody Hebert

Erna Ference loves to run. She and her sneaker-sporting buddies log miles along the trails surrounding their picture-postcard community of Black Diamond, Alberta, in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains. In Erna’s running group, she and her spirited sidekicks trade recipes made for athletes as easily as they trade stretching tips.

And they’re unanimous in their passion for chicken, what Erna terms the perfect protein for runners. “It’s light, healthy, incredibly versatile and available everywhere,” she says. Easy for her to say. As owner (along with her husband, Reg) of the Foothills Poultry farm, Erna’s backyard is home to thousands of the feisty fowl.

As the summer breezes blow and the Ference clan gathers around the picnic table for a twilight feast, there’s sure to be a bird on the platter. And if it’s a beer you’re after, you might want to look inside the chicken. On this farm, the culinary dish du jour is “Beer Can Chicken,” a method of roasting a whole bird by placing an open, half full, beer can into the cavity of the chicken and putting it on the grill. Like a tripod, the bird balances precariously on its legs and the can. Other liquids including lemonade, chicken stock or fruit juice can be substituted for the ale.

“What it’s really about,” says Erna “is providing moisture so the bird doesn’t dry out. One of the most common mistakes people make with chicken is to overcook it. Low and slow is what you want to think about.”  She suggests investing in a good thermometer to ensure the chicken reaches an internal temperature of 165˚F (75˚C) for pieces and 185˚F (85˚C) for a whole bird. That way, you’re not guessing.

The safe handling and preparation of poultry is also extremely important even before you get it home, cautions this self-proclaimed “chicken lady.”

“When you’re grocery shopping it’s a good idea to keep your chicken separate from the rest of the groceries,” Erna warns. Often the wrap on poultry is not sufficient and liquids may leak out onto other items or your hands. At home, always wash your hands, utensils and cooking surfaces with soap and hot water before you handle food, while you prepare it, and again when you’ve finished.

Make chicken the only hot part of your summer meal by serving it still-warm over a bed of cool, crisp greens, as pictured on the cover. Or, to keep kitchen time to a minimum, cook your chicken early in the morning when it’s cool. Toss it in the fridge and it’s perfect for summer dishes such as chicken salad. Chicken will keep in the refrigerator for about three days – plenty of time to pair it with fresh, seasonal ingredients.

To prepare a quick and easy Thai Chicken Salad, shred chicken, cabbage and carrots with red pepper and top with a dressing of lime juice, fish sauce, sugar and chili peppers. Or get a taste of a modern classic, Curried Chicken Salad, by combining chicken, apples, raisins, celery, lime juice, curry powder and mayonaise.

Summer is brief, and no one wants to spend it in a stuffy kitchen. A crock pot is another great way to cook without heating up the house; you can even plug it in outside. A recipe such as Jerk Chicken can be prepared in the slow cooker, from which the seasoned sliced chicken is then placed on a tortilla topped with seasonal vegetables and black beans – perfect for tucking away in a picnic cooler.

But remember, a penchant for year-round poultry needn’t be confined to chicken. Other birds offer up a healthy dinner alternative. Turkey producers are starting to gobble up a larger share of the summertime protein market. No longer just for holidays, a variety of turkey products are popping up in local grocery stores: turkey tenderloins, steaks, boneless breasts, bacon, drums and sausages.

“Why not?” asks NAIT Culinary Arts instructor Troy Lymburner. “It has a high protein content and little fat. While I’m not going to turn on my oven and roast a turkey for three hours when it’s hot outside, I often purchase boneless breasts or ground turkey for burgers, to throw on the grill. Or I may sauté turkey medallions on the stove. There are so many quick ways to prepare it.”

Lymburner says he’s even deep-fried a turkey in the summer. Akin to a pig roast or clambake, a turkey boil consists of whole birds cooked in large vats of oil. The result?  In one hour, a 10-pound bird is simmered to perfection, beautifully crisp on the outside with plenty of tender, succulent meat.

Surely, this method must be unhealthy? “Not necessarily,” explains Lymburner. “If you use good quality oil and maintain the proper temperature, the turkey doesn’t absorb as much oil as you think. If you remove the skin, the meat is still very lean, compared to beef or pork.”

Turkey consumption is on an upward trend, agrees Mary Ellen Grueneberg of Greens, Eggs and Ham, a mixed farming operation east of Edmonton. Along with duck and Cornish game hens, the Gruenebergs sell turkey cuts to high-end restaurants and the City Centre Farmers’ Market in Edmonton. Consequently, local diners are seeing more turkey dishes on the menu, no matter the season.

“People are looking for something different,” says Mary Ellen. “Our sausage flavours – orange gin with saskatoon berry, port and cherry, sweet paprika, rum and raisin – are very popular.” She has taken steps to alleviate any food allergies for her customers. Many of her products contain no gluten, lactose or wheat fillers and no pork casings.

The Gruenebergs are also nurturing a growing duck operation, thanks to the support of local chefs and adventurous consumers. “You’ll find chefs using our duck proscuitto and duck confit on summer salads and pizza,” Andreas Grueneberg says. (Confit is duck or goose cooked in its own fat and preserved.) “Many of us aren’t raised cooking duck like some other cultures,” he admits. “But duck offers another healthy protein alternative. People think of it as quite fatty and it’s simply not true.”

“Duck is very healthy,” chimes in Mary Ellen. “It contains highly digestible fats, and the eggs are wonderful for baking. The loft they give to cakes and soufflés is quite astonishing.”

Lymburner suggests getting acquainted with it by purchasing precooked smoked duck breast. “A great summer idea,” he says, “is simply arranging a cold platter with sliced smoked duck, a variety of cheeses, fresh fruit and bread.”

Finding such products is now easier since Greens, Eggs and Ham recently landed a contract with Sobeys to supply duck, meat, eggs and exotic vegetables to select stores.

The Gruenebergs’ hope is that this will encourage consumers to try something new. “I’m always excited to grow and try new things,” says Andreas.

“It’s boring having the same thing on your plate all the time. People need to make eating more of an adventure. It’s what we’re all about.” 

Duck burgers, anyone?  

Turkey producers are starting to gobble up a larger share of the summertime protein market. No longer just for holidays, a variety of turkey products are popping up in local grocery stores: turkey tenderloins, steaks, boneless breasts, bacon, drums and sausages.

Recipe:

Grilled Turkey Kebabs