In Their Kitchens

Alberta, on the Menu

Sometimes the smallest villages offer the richest rewards (and desserts). Mother Mountain Teahouse and Restaurant is definitely worth the drive

Story By David Turner

If you think the Prairies hold nothing but gophers and grains, think again. Smack-dab in the middle of what many visitors to this province think of as empty grassland is a little spot that offers a fabulous dining experience. Heide Peterson and her partner, Yvon Fournier, won’t have it any other way.

“We want to give people an experience,” says Peterson. “I just really love cooking. At first, I just wanted to make some really good sandwiches and soup. It wasn’t enough. It went further than we planned.” Originally from Calgary, the couple sold their businesses and bought a building “in the middle of nowhere,” as Peterson says. Now Mother Mountain Teahouse and Restaurant is on the map. It has books of signatures from guests from Dubai to Vancouver, and Singapore to Halifax.

The “middle of nowhere” turns out to be Delia, Alberta. The village, population 200, is located 50 kilometres northeast of Drumheller and 35 kilometres west of Hanna. The Hand Hills lie close to the town. These hills shoot up almost 185 metres above the prairie, making them one of the highest points between the Rockies and Labrador. They lend a unique geographical character to the region. “It gives people a destination in the area, the roof of the Prairies,” points out Peterson. Mother Mountain Teahouse adds its distinctive style to the small town too.

Not only is the establishment a destination for tourists and Albertans looking for a great meal, but  provincial leaders have dined at Mother Mountain. During the Western Premier’s Conference in 1999, the restaurant’s secluded and historic location, not to mention its flavourful Alberta fare, made it the perfect backdrop.

Mother Mountain Teahouse opened in 1996, two years after Peterson and Fournier found an old, abandoned lumber building and decided to renovate it. “We looked for quite a while all around. When we found this building we thought it was perfect,” Peterson says. Fournier’s experience in construction and Peterson’s interior design transformed the place into the lively building Mother Mountain is today. They enjoyed the work, and it shows.

The old Crown Lumber building was first built in 1912, and after it closed its doors, sat empty for 20 years before the couple added their touch of comfort and charm. The original wood floors and antique furniture take diners back in time. Peterson adds exceptional interior flare with her skill in decorating: old plates, cups, saucers, antique pictures of the area on the walls and even a time-worn prairie piano adorn the restaurant. In cooler months, customers can feel the heat of a wood stove taking the chill from their bones.

It’s the region that influences Peterson’s menu. “It’s beef country,” she says. Sunday roasts are a staple at Mother Mountain. “And we’ve gone through a lot of pork ribs.”

“For a while I was making all kinds of things. In the beginning I made a lot of fancy deserts, but I found people just wanted pie. So you get a nice big slice of pie with a scoop of ice cream,” Peterson says.

If heart and soul are part of their everyday ingredients, maybe the couple’s influences have a hand in their success. “My dad was a chef. I was always hanging in the kitchen with dad,” Peterson says. Fournier is a former cabinet maker, and lends his practical skills to the rustic detail and construction of the restaurant as well as to the serving duties of the teahouse, “keeping customers entertained,” as Peterson jokes.

She doesn’t vary her menu wildly; her customers count on their favourite fare. Regulars come from as far away as Sherwood Park and Two Hills.

Don and Diana Brewitt have frequented Mother Mountain since it opened. Don says, “We live out in the country, about 12 miles from town.” That’s country miles, not kilometres, but close enough for Diana to know immediately what her favourite dish is: “Friday night ribs. It’s probably the sauce and how they’re done. They’re incredibly tender.”

Eggs Neptune tops Don’s list of what’s great at the teahouse for Sunday brunch. But he makes one thing clear: it’s the sweets that touch his heart (and his stomach). “Even if you just order desert, it’s worth the drive,” Don says.

The Brewitts clearly appreciate that their small community has a great place to dine. “This is a couple with no connection to Delia,” says Don. “They came here and poured their hearts and souls into their business.”

Some people simply stumble on the teahouse as they explore Alberta. Mother Mountain Teahouse is ready for them, too. “I cook for what tourists expect; they didn’t come here for Italian or Greek food,” Peterson says. She gives her patrons quality Alberta food, because she understands what it’s like to explore rural Alberta and not find a decent place to eat. She didn’t want to disappoint visitors with another greasy spoon. At Mother Mountain, quality counts.

“I try to buy local when I can. I’m an Angus fan, so that’s basically what I serve,” Peterson says. She also goes to the farmers’ market for many of her vegetables during the busy tourist season. Her cooking philosophy is simple: “To use as many fresh ingredients as possible, and as many good ingredients as possible.” This philosophy matches her menu, which remains simple and satisfying. If people want pie, then give them pie. Give them raisin, apple, blueberry, rhubarb, cherry and saskatoon pie. When people expect to eat something from Alberta because they find a beautiful, historic building in the middle of rural Alberta, then make the best Alberta meats you can, whether it’s Friday night pork ribs or Sunday evening roast beef. And it’s paid off: Peterson and Fournier say keeping Alberta on the menu keeps business rolling. It’s hard to find the time, but Peterson says, “We still have another building to go; it’s an old bank.”

Does anyone smell a bakery?

If you go

Keeping Alberta in the menu, Heide Peterson and Yvon Fournier hope to remain busy for years to come. Two diners can leave stuffed for under $50. Usually open four days a week, the restaurant closes completely from New Year’s Day until Valentine’s Day. Peterson and Fournier also operate a nearby guest cottage. Call (403) 364-2057 or for more info visit www.mothermountainteahouse.ca.

Recipe:

Heide's Flaky Apple Raisin Pie