Something About Taber

Story by Shelley Knapp

Discover the secrets behind what makes Taber corn so sweet and delicious.

The sun peeks over the horizon, painting the field in a colourful wash of tangerine and rose.  Garry Valgardson weaves his way between the stately stalks of corn in the early light.  Known as the "Corn King" of Taber, he has spent more than 30 years cultivating corn so sweet that many choose to slide back the silk and nibble on the sugary pearls within, warmed only by the sun.

Corn from Valgardson's and other farmers' fields in Taber, a small southern Alberta town cradled in the bosom of the Oldman River, is so exceptional that people from Utah to Vancouver crave its golden goodness.  Valgardson, who every year harvests 240 acres of the highly sought-after vegetable, credits a number of things for Taber's super corn.  It's a perfect combination of a sandy-loamy soil (a type that holds moisture well and allows air and nutrients to circulate to the roots), whipping winds that facilitate pollination, a sophisticated irrigation system and long hot summers.

"Taber gets more sunlight during the year than anywhere in Canada and everyone knows corn likes it hot," says Valgardson.  "Then we have the cooler nights that bring out the corn's sweetness.  If you go too far west it won't grow as good, too far east the same thing.  We are just in the perfect place."

Corn from the area is so popular it has spawned imitators claiming origin in the "Corn Capital of Canada."  Disheartened by the imposters, Taber growers banded together to trademark Taber corn.

But don't be confused into thinking Taber corn is its own variety.  "It's not," says David Hill, executive director of Alberta Irrigation.  "It's just all sorts of corn that grow really well here.  It's a pure southern Alberta phenomenon."  Each year, Valgardson and other Taber growers harvest several varieties of corn, amoung them: Northern Bicolour (think Peaches and Cream), Golden Jubilee, Northern Supersweet, Krispy King, and Pearl, a northern supersweet white corn.

And people around here know they're sitting on something special.  Hill grew up in the area and is enamoured with the social activities surrounding the corn's harvest, including Taber's annual Cornfest, complete with a corn-eating race and a best of cornbread contest.  "There is a whole lot of life and social activity wrapped up in Taber corn," says Hill.  "It's one of those food events that really brings the community together."

For those looking to snap up some corn for their own summer barbeque, Valgardson harvests his fresh every night after the sun goes down.  By 2 a.m., the cobs are loaded into reefer trucks and shipped to roadside stands and farmers' markets across the province.  While some corn starts to flood the market in July, true Taber corn is usually available by mid-August.

Depending on the season, a shopper's best bet is to look for the Taber corn trademark.  "Then you know you are getting the best corn there is," Valgardson says.  If you're unsure about whether the corn you're buying is truly from taber, just ask.  Vendors should be able to produce a certificate from the Taber Corn Growers Association - official seals and all - to verify the corn's authenticity.

Here's another test: try the corn raw without butter or salt.  "It's just so sweet - there's no doubt about it - you can tell it's Taber corn," says Valgardson.