In Their Kitchens

Story by Lynn Haley

Spirited Dining

Chef Willie White of the River House Grill in St. Albert offers his tips for cooking and pairing food with wine and spirits

The fine line between a great and truly superb meal is defined by the wine or spirits it is paired or prepared with. That’s the firm belief of Willie White, chef and owner of the River House Grill. His chic bistro, artfully housed in a charming heritage home in St. Albert (a suburb just north of Edmonton), offers patrons exceptional regional cuisine paired in exquisite detail with wines and spirits – many of which are Canadian.

When it comes to menu design, his passion is firmly rooted in Alberta soil. A well-recognized patron of farmers’ markets, fellow shoppers often stop him so they can peek into his shopping basket and ask what he’s cooking for dinner. “Sometimes it takes me awhile to work my way through the market because I find myself talking to so many people between stalls!” he says.

For White and his team, dinner has several variations ranging from tapas and wine tasting to a pre-set regional menu or his wildly popular Sunday AAA Roasted Alberta Prime Rib. Regardless of the format, guests can expect to drench their taste buds in a “fresh” sheet that changes every few weeks and features hand-picked Alberta products in highly creative ways.

How do wines and spirits get incorporated into his menu? White uses them in two ways.

In The Kitchen

“I cook judiciously with wines and spirits,” he says. “Alcohol in any form is a flavour enhancer – not a flavour maker. Often people are surprised to find out that wine or spirits don’t make food taste better. However, used properly, wines or spirits can intensify or balance existing flavours. And of course, a great glass of wine in the kitchen can certainly provide inspiration for the chef!

“Facts are, you don’t need very much, but use good quality,” he advises. “And be very aware of the ingredients of the wine or spirits you are using. For example, the sweetness of Madeira wine is the perfect balance for a demi-glaze sauce with a sharp mustard base. A medium brandy is the ideal partner for a peppercorn steak sauce where the flavours are strong and bold. A light citrus-based white wine will not overpower, but will accent a mild seafood dish.”

On the Menu

Pairing wine with meals is an art form that sommeliers (wine experts) have been honing for centuries. White thinks wine selection is a blend of some knowledge and confidence in your own taste buds. “The best way to learn about wine is to ask questions and be willing to experiment a little,” he says.

“Wine tasting is very personal and unique to your palate,” he continues. “Moreover, you can bet that your first and second sip of the same glass of wine will deliver a different taste experience.”

White offers a substantive selection of wines by the glass and he makes two to three wine selections for each menu item. “I find that most of our guests like to choose their own wines,” he says. “We offer some direction by suggesting wines that are well-balanced with the meal. But guests need to make that choice for themselves and most people appreciate being offered a variety and the option to experiment one glass at a time.”

What about spirits? White muses that a single malt scotch is the quintessential end to a perfect meal. He should know – he is building a collection of 30 single malts which will be featured in a new bar he is currently designing. As a Scotsman, it’s  his cultural heritage.

How does he choose the wines he features? He and his team participate in wine tastings, attend winery tours and read extensively. “We’ve tasted wines from major producing areas all over the world,” he says. “Canada – especially the Okanagan and the Niagara Peninsula, have some outstanding products. We’re beginning to be highly competitive on the international scene.”

Late this summer, White will be opening a separate wine and single malt bar at the River House Grill that will offer a new late menu and a good selection of appetizers. “We’re envisioning the bar as a unique venue for people to sample and nosh their way through an evening of adventure and relaxation.” 

Tips for Cooking with Wines and Spirits

· Don’t cook with a wine you would not drink. Wines that are often dubbed as “cooking wines” can impart harsh flavours and intensify the salt in your meal.

· Check the wine’s core ingredients. Sweet wines will make your dish sweeter, while fruity wines will make it fruitier.

· Many full-bodied red wines work well with red meats as marinades because the alcohol and acid in the wine tenderizes the meat.

· If you cook with wine, let it simmer for some time. This allows the flavours to blend gently and the alcohol content to evaporate (alcohol has a lower boiling point than water and will evaporate before all the other liquid is gone).

· Adding alcohol just before you serve a dish is not recommended because it can add a harsh and often unpleasant quality to your dish

· If you are concerned about incorporating alcohol into cooking for health or religious reasons, consider trying non-alcoholic wines – today there are many varieties that have great flavour enhancement qualities.

Spirited Dining

Menu

 Fire-grilled Red Pear and Feta Cheese
Salad with Roasted Pecans

Wine Recommendation: Artist Series Pinot Noir VQA Calona Vineyards Okanagan Valley 2004

•

*Northern Alberta Whitefish Fillet with
Black and White Sesame Seed Crust

Wine Recommendation: VQA CanadianGewürztraminer from the Okanagan Valley such as Sumac Ridge Private Reserve or Summerhill Organic Winery

•

Prairie Rhubarb, Saskatoon Berry and Strawberry Crisp

Wine Recommendation: Quails’ Gate Late Harvest Optima VQA Okanagan Valley Canada or a late harvest dessert wine

·  recipe available online at www.growingalberta.com

Fire-grilled Red Pear and Feta Cheese Salad with Roasted Pecans

This stunning summer salad tastes every bit as sensational as it looks.

2                  large pears, cut in half and cored, then each half into five wedges (red pears look especially nice in this salad)
8 oz (250 g)   local feta cheese, diced into 1⁄2 inch (1 cm) cubes
5                   large ripe strawberries, each cut into four slices 
4                   cups or one small bag of mixed salad greens 2 tsp (10 mL) fresh chives, finely chopped
1⁄4 cup (50 mL) pecan nuts
1                   bunch yellow or green pea shoots (optional)
Fresh edible flowers, for garnish (optional)
Freshly ground pepper
Sea salt, to taste

To prepare: Toast the pecans by spreading on a cookie sheet and baking in the oven for 8 to 10 minutes at 350oF (175oC). Let cool for 15 minutes. Grill pear wedges for 1 to 2 minutes on the barbecue or under the broiler in the oven until slightly softened.

To plate: Place greens in the middle of a dinner-sized plate. Place pear wedges around the greens. Alternate strawberries and feta cheese cubes between pear wedges. Place pea shoots on top of the greens in the middle of the plate. Sprinkle chives and pecans over strawberries and feta. Lightly drizzle dressing on top of salad (see recipe that follows). Sprinkle with a pinch of freshly ground pepper and sea salt. Serves 4.

Creamy Balsamic Dressing

1                        egg
3 tbsp (45 mL)     balsamic vinegar
1/3 cup (75 mL)   canola oil
1 tsp (5 mL)         grainy mustard
Sea salt and ground pepper, to taste
Pinch of sugar

In a blender combine all ingredients, except oil. Carefully open the top of the blender while running on low and pour the oil in very slowly. This will emulsify the dressing into a creamy liquid.

Prairie Rhubarb, Saskatoon Berry and Strawberry Crisp

Experience a new dimension in comfort with this seasonal fruit crisp.

Oat Crust

3⁄4 cup (175 mL)  quick oats (for optimal flavour, try Highwood Crossing Organic Oats)
3⁄4 cup (175 mL)  all purpose flour
3/4 cup (170 g)    unsalted hard butter
1⁄2 cup (125 mL)  brown sugar
1 tsp (5 mL)        cinnamon powder
Zest of one orange
Pinch of salt

If you have a food processor, combine all ingredients and process until the mixture begins to clump. You can also do this by hand – mix with a spoon until mixture is well blended and crumbly.

Fruit Mix

3 cups (750 mL) rhubarb, diced
2 cups (500 mL) saskatoon berries
2 cups (500 mL) strawberries, cut into 1-inch chunks
1⁄2 cup (125 mL) white sugar
2 tbsp (30 mL)    cornstarch
1⁄2 tsp (2 mL)     cinnamon
Pinch of salt
Zest and juice of half a lemon

Combine all of the fruit mix ingredients into one bowl and gently stir together. Place the fruit mixture in a lightly buttered 9x11-inch baking dish. Sprinkle the topping mixture over the fruit. Bake in the oven at 350oF (175oC) for 35 to 40 minutes until the topping is brown and the fruit mix is bubbling.

     Cool for 30 minutes before serving. To serve, add a scoop of your favourite ice cream. Garnish with fresh strawberries and a sprig of fresh mint. Serves 6.