Off the Eaten Path

Story by Noemi LoPinto

Albertans love meat. But you may not have known just how many different kinds of it we consume. Check out the new meat alternatives.

When Terry Church wanted to lose weight he looked no further than the cuts of meat already sitting in his fridge. As the manager of the Calgary Rocky Mountain Ranch, Church is never far from a supply of healthy, low-fat game meat. This was the ideal fare for the 67-year-old, who wanted to shed some pounds without sacrificing red meat in his diet.

“The nice thing was, I could eat a moderate serving of protein a few times a day,” Church says. “It goes a long way towards satisfying your hunger, without worrying about the calories.” Three months into a new, and very healthful,  diet that incorporated elk, bison meat and lots of veggies, Church had lost 60 pounds.

Of course, the “regular” meats that consumers are more familiar with are still good choices when it comes to healthy eating and sensible dieting, especially when diners choose the leaner cuts. But adding exotics to the mix offers some more options. And, in today’s weight –
conscious times, game meat is an increasingly popular choice that helps counter diet fatigue.

“Typically, dieters want to eat low-fat meat,” says Church. “Elk and bison fall right into that category quite nicely. Apart from being good for weight loss, it’s also a flavourful meat that presents people with a nice alternative when they’re looking for a change.”

With some game meats, you also have the added advantage of being able to visit and choose your game. Ranchers are accessible; you can drive up to many of their doors and see their operations in action, view the animals and find out about the meat before you buy.

As a market, game meat is growing in Alberta. The fastest growing segment is what Church calls “the white tablecloth market” – the restaurants. Bison meat, in particular, is increasingly popular with local chefs, and it’s a staple at most fine dining establishments. It has also penetrated the retail market and is now consistently available in most large supermarkets and discount stores. Similar to its cousin, beef, bison meat is a nutrient-dense food with a high proportion of protein, minerals, iron, zinc and essential fatty acids (omega-3 and 6).

Elk is also increasingly popular in the western provinces. More commonly consumed in Europe, it has seen tremendous growth in the last five years, mostly in fine dining or gourmet cuisine establishments. There are about 375 elk producers in the province, and about 35,000 animals, which may sound like a lot but is actually a pretty small population, especially when you compare it to beef. The most commonly raised varieties of elk are Rocky Mountain, Manitoban and Roosevelt, all of which are indigenous to Canada. A mature bull can weigh as much as 500 kilograms (1,100 pounds), with a female weighing in at 250 to 350 kilograms (550 to 660 pounds). In Canada, the main purpose of farming elk has been the sale of antler velvet and ivory, but industry research has shown that meat quality is not compromised as the animal ages. Even a mature animal as old as eight can still be harvested, which is good news for both producers and consumers. It is one of the leanest meats out there, high in protein, iron and B vitamins, and has a distinct flavour. It is well suited to light cuisine, such as broiling, grilling, and stir-fries. As versatile as beef, it can be prepared by the same methods, although cooking times are usually reduced by as much as one third. Its leanness makes it easier to overcook. Elk has gone from being a nearly invisible presence to being on many menus in Edmonton and Calgary restaurants, but it’s a little harder for a shopper to find it on an everyday basis. 

But if you’re bored by bison, easy on elk and won’t be coy with caribou, why not try some ostrich? A handful of ostrich farmers in Alberta produce a delicious red meat that is also low in cholesterol, fat and calories. Ostrich meat is a deep red, a littler darker red than beef. Most of the lean meat will come from the large muscles in the legs and the back, which can be sold as steaks and roasts. With a veal-like texture and taste, ostrich meat can replace beef in all your traditional recipes. Patsy Clark, of Patsy Clark Farms, has been raising the giant birds for nine years. Her sausages, ground meat patties, pepperoni, and other cuts of meat can be found year-round at the Calgary Farmers’ Market.

“The meat is very beef-like in flavour but has almost no fat in it,” she says. “It cooks very quickly and is easy to digest.” She adds that consumers might be surprised that the cost is comparable to that of good cuts of beef.

Ostriches are the largest living birds in the world. Native to Africa, they seem able to adapt to almost any climate. Adult males, called roosters, can reach two and a half metres (seven or eight feet) tall and weigh 160 to 180 kilograms (350 to 400 pounds). One ostrich egg is equivalent in mass to two dozen chicken eggs; to soft boil one egg takes about an hour. An ostrich hen can lay between 40 and 100 eggs a year.

Patsy and her husband Bob raise about 100 birds a year. They also sell everything related to the bird, including broken and whole egg shells (valued by some painters as a unique work surface), hides and feathers. Patsy has also created her own line of ostrich oil-based soaps, face and body creams.

Ostrich meat contains little fat, which means it does cook differently than beef. Tender cuts should be grilled, broiled or barbecued. Steaks should not be cooked to more than medium or medium-rare. Steaming, sautéing or cooking the meat with vegetables is the best method for people who like their meat well done, otherwise the meat may end up dry and tough. Most cuts will cook faster than an equivalent cut of beef, and less is definitely more in the spice department because the meat picks up flavour easily and quickly. Patsy likes to make roasts, because they are so quick and easy, she says. The Clarks have established relationships with some
Calgary-based eateries, such as gourmet restaurants Fleur de Sel and Rouge, which serve ostrich on their dinner menus every day. But Patsy hasn’t tasted it. “We eat so much ostrich at home, when we go out I want something different,” she says.

If you’re intimidated by ostrich you can always do as people from Mediterranean, southern European, Middle Eastern, African, southeastern Asian, South and Central American and the West Indies do and buy yourself some chevron, also known as goat’s meat. According to the Alberta Goat Breeders Association, some 63 per cent of red meat consumed in the rest of the world is goat. Immigrants from these countries celebrate Ramadan, Greek Easter, and Hindu holidays with traditional goat meat dishes. People of Jamaican descent also like to celebrate Carnival, Carifest, and Jamaican Independence Day with traditional dishes such as goat curry, a favourite at the home Maureen Lewis, whose Jamaican-born husband loves both the animal and the dish. The couple raises a small herd of Boer, Boer cross and La Mancha goats on Balmaur Farms in Three Hills.

“We thought we could raise goats for meat and have the pleasure of having the animals around,” says Maureen. “That got us into it. No sooner were we in it than we realized we should stay involved.”

There are nearly 300 breeds of goats worldwide, but in Canada, you’ll find only about a dozen breeds. Female goats are called does, males are bucks, and baby goats are known as kids. “Wethers” is the term used to describe castrated males. All of them can be harvested. The Boer goat is one of the more commonly used for meat production.

“They are perfect acreage animals,” she says. “About five goats can be raised where one cow can. Your herd grows quickly because generally speaking they have multiple births, twins or triplets.”

Chevron’s flavour can be likened to venison or lamb but it has a mild taste. You can use the same cuts of meat in the same recipes as you would beef or venison. It’s comparable to a lean beef in cholesterol and fat levels. An 85-gram (three-ounce) serving of cooked chevron contains 122 calories, 2.58 g fat, 0.79 g saturated fat, 23 g protein, and 3.2 mg iron. Maureen prepares spaghetti and meatballs, chops, steaks, roasts, and a lot of curry with the meat.

“It’s grown in leaps and bounds,” she says of Alberta’s goat consumption. “Every year we have kidded out more young goats and at the end of the year we still don’t have enough to fill demand. We also help people set up their own flocks and we commit to working with them. We promise that if any these farmers have goats left over at the end of the year, we’ll help sell them, but none has returned a goat yet.”

You can find just about any exotic meat at your local farmers’ markets. If white meat is your preference, sample some rabbit in Lethbridge from Jim and Margaret Oosterhof ’s stand at the local farmer’s market. J&M Rabbit Farms sells ground whole rabbit and cut-up rabbit. They also sell their own line of meat patties for Fido, if commercial foods don’t agree with your dog.

“It’s really good and pleasant to work with,” says Margaret Oosterhof. “The flavour is what actually draws people to it.”

The Oosterhofs had been raising pet rabbits for decades when they decided to expand their operation in 2000 to include meat for human consumption, hawk and dog food. For gardeners, their flocks produce lots of bunny manure, great for a nutrient-rich soil. The Oosterhofs invested in two varieties; the New Zealand, which are large animals with pure white fur and red eyes and the Californian, with black patches. As the only rabbit meat producers in the province, they quickly found a niche market.

If you have diabetes, heart disease or obesity, rabbit meat makes good dietary sense. It has only 795 calories per pound. It’s easy to digest, high in protein and low in cholesterol. It’s also a tender and juicy dish with a light flavour. People buy direct from the farm, or sample rabbit at a variety of high-end restaurants in both Lethbridge and Calgary. The Guesthouse Restaurant in Lethbridge served; restaurant owner and chef Al Scherer created a rabbit dish with wine sauce, and another with honey garlic. The dishes sell, he says.

“Luckily, people like to try new things,” says Scherer. “It’s totally unique, and it’s always nice to have new dishes.”  

Elk: A royal idea

The way he tells it, Don Bamber bought his first bull elk because he wanted to be able to admire the animal at close range every day.

“I saw a two-minute blurb on television saying that the rules for raising elk had changed, making them easier to farm,”
says Bamber. “The idea was so exciting.
I wanted to see those great big racks outside my window.”

Don and Holly Bamber started out with a herd of five on their land near Sangudo, Alberta. What started out as a whimsical purchase quickly turned into a solid business. A passing comment from a neighbour on the high monetary value of elk antler led the couple to study the development of a process to freeze dry and encapsulate organic antler on their property. The Bambers harvest the antler in its velvet stage, in early summer, before it has hardened. Contrary to popular notions, it’s not the velvet they use, it’s the slightly soft antler underneath. Harvested at this stage, the antlers have eight essential amino acids, pancreatine and chondroitin sulphate. Antler has been used in Asia to treat conditions ranging from arthritis to multiple sclerosis. Since 1994, the Bambers have built four processing plants. By 1996, Royal Elk Products was producing two kinds of health capsules, pure elk antler, and elk antler and ginseng.

At one time, the farm had as many as 600 animals, all bulls maintained on organic pasture. The Bambers diversified their products to include elk sausage and prime cuts of meat for human consumption, and treats for household pets. In 1999, the couple reduced the size of their operation due to drought to a smaller herd and invested in their then 10-year-old daughter’s fledgling business venture: Super Dog Treats, a high-end holistic treat enriched with, you guessed it, elk antler. The treats are designed to maintain the health of man’s best friend, as well as help protect them from the effects of old age: arthritis and stiff joints, as well as alleviating allergies and stomach ailments. Ingredients include soy protein concentrate, brown rice, dried ground apple and saskatoon berries, among others.

Even after 20 years, Don still loves seeing the elk outside his kitchen window. Luckily for him, what began as a calling became a living. “I’ve always been the kind of person who does what he wanted to do,” he says. “Some people study it. I just went ahead and did it.”

Find out more

Don’t take our word for it; visit some of the Alberta producers of exotic meats yourself. Hit the farmers’ markets, hit the road or start online to learn more.

Alberta Goat Breeders Association Learn about the provinces great goats.  Visit www.albertagoatbreeders.ca or call (780) 878-3814. 

J & M Rabbit Farms Contact the Oosterhofs of Lethbridge, AB. Find out about rabbit meat and rabbit manure compost. Call (403) 317-0330 or email jim.margaret.oosterhof@gmail.com.

Balmaur Farms Contact Barry and Maureen Lewis in Three Hills to find out about what the rest of the world considers red meat. Call (403) 443-2874 or email balmaur@xplornet.com.

Patsy Clark Farms and Essence of the Nile Patricia and Bob Clark can talk ostrich with you. Call (403) 285-1624 or visit www.patsyclarkfarms.ca or www.ostrich.ca.

Canadian Rocky Mountain Ranch Terry Church can tell you how to bust out of dieting doldrums with his great Alberta game meats. Call (403) 256-1350 or visit www.crmranch.com.

Royal Elk Products The Bambers of Sangudo can talk about the benefits of elk antler and velvet for you and Fido. Call (780) 785-3558.