Coming Up Veggies

This year, the only thing standing between you and the perfect veggie-packed urban garden is a little sound advice. And a lot of honest work

Story By Jay Smith

Gardens begin in the realm of culinary fantasy: cornucopias of colourful vegetables spill forth into your kitchen, arranging themselves in perfect piles of brilliantly orange carrots, crunchy fresh greens, and tomatoes that taste like epiphany.

As any backyard gardener will admit, however, the progression from an untilled quack-grass-infested backyard plot and a couple packages of seeds to a harvest of vegetables fit for the gods is not always straightforward. Unexpected frosts and garden pests are the obvious obstacles, but there’s a lot of fine-tuning that is needed to ensure your garden grows the lush veggies you’re dreaming about.

Take heart: there’s plenty of advice to be had - from specialty shops, and gardening shows, to critical neighbours. And then there are the experts, those folks with a vested interest in hoeing the straightest row and nurturing the healthiest soil: farmers themselves. Here are their tips, tricks, and best bets for your backyard plot.

Meet the panel of Food For Thought experts: Tam Anderson of Prairie Gardens in Bon Accord, Paul de Jonge of Broxburn Vegetables outside of Lethbridge, Jim Hole of Hole’s Gardens in St. Albert and Michael Kalmano-vitch of Earth’s General Store in Edmonton. They can help you coax the best from your backyard.

More Than Just Dirt

Though it sounds mundane, your garden begins with the soil, so you can’t underestimate its importance. Soil conditions can make or break your backyard plot. Even non-gardeners typically have an intuitive sense of whether their soil is good: pale, crunchy dirt or sandy dirt, for instance, both scream “bad growing!” whereas the dark, heavy, rich stuff has the consistency that you know Mother Earth intended.

Jim Hole, gardening expert at Hole’s Green-house and gardens, considers soil so important that he suggests the first thing you do is “go and get a good load of soil, rather than trying to change what you have, and put the new soil in. I like to say a foot of topsoil is good. Though others say six inches, I like to have deeper topsoil. It makes such an improvement.”

Hole says you can buy the soil in bags at the garden centre or, if you need more, you can order in. He also recommends that you add compost to the soil throughout the growing season. “Even if you start out with good soil, you need always to be building it up. Otherwise, the soil will erode and its quality will degrade.”

“Composting is the magic bullet for gardening, as far as I’m concerned,” says a very enthusiastic Michael Kalmanovitch of Earth’s General Store. “I don’t like to use the words Ômagic bullet’ for many things, but, as far as composting goes, you shouldn’t be growing if you’re not composting as well.” Kalmano-vitch has been supporting composting since his store opened, more than 15 years ago. (Although it no longer sells conventional composters, it remains one of the few places in Edmonton where you can purchase worms for worm composting.)

Kalmanovitch’s passion for compost derives from its ability to increase the nutritive value of the soil and its potency as a “soil amendment” capable of improving soils too high in clay or sand, while regulating pH balance. Beyond your garden, compost has an impressive environmental impact: it diverts up to 27 per cent of domestic waste from landfills. Even though Edmonton has a world-class composting facility, which diverts almost all compostible material from the garbage, many municipalities don’t.

“You say that you want to grow your own vegetables, but you throw all your waste leaves, stems, and stalks into the garbage!” Kalmanovitch exclaims. “The organic value of the soil goes downÉ and eventually you’ll have to add something to the soil. If you’re growing without composting, you’re only dealing with two-thirds of the growing cycle, as far as I’m concerned.”

Plan Your Garden

Maybe you’ve been planting the same section of your backyard for 10 years, or maybe this is your first year. Either way, take a minute to consider (or reconsider) the lay of the land. Taking into account your growing region, the sort of sunlight your yard receives, and what sort of seeds are best suited to these conditions will help to make yours a bumper crop this year.

For newer gardeners, however, Tam Anderson, who farms near Bon Accord, has an insight on how big to make your little Eden: start on the small side. “A tip I learned from Lois Hole: Never seed more than you can hoe. Even though weeding can be a Zen-like activity, there is a limit,” Anderson says. “If you’re going to be hand-hoeing, be judicious in what you plant.”

Going to the trouble of getting good seeds and preparing the soil is to no avail if you can’t bring yourself to find your seedlings amidst quack grass and dandelions.

Paul de Jonge, who farms near Lethbridge, agrees that it’s important to be realistic from the start about how much time and energy you have to devote. “You may love broccoli, but if you’re not prepared to baby-sit, you’re going to eat a lot of caterpillars and not a lot of broccoli,” he says. If you don’t have the time for labour-intensive crops, don’t grow them. Simpler crops like potatoes and onions are a lot easier. Even carrots and beets can go awhile without weeding or scrutiny for wiggling pests.

And while you’re planning, consider which direction your garden faces. Jim Hole points out that gardens receiving southern or western light grow heat-loving crops a lot better than ones receiving northern light. Although there are challenges with drying soil in sunny southern-facing plots, you can grow most anything if you remember to water well.

Maybe your yard is northern- or eastern-facing, with overarching oak branches shading your plot. “There’s not a lot you can do,” Hole says. “Depending on how shady it is - you can grow green onions, lettuce, shade annuals and perennials. There are more limitations.”

Regions and Seeds

Alberta farmers simply can’t grow the lush variety of crops that our neighbours in British Columbia can. “The growing season is truly not long in Alberta,” says de Jonge. “If you plant in May, you have June, July and August for harvesting. But it’s worth the effort.”

Tam Anderson explains. “There are usually between 110 and 120 days of frost-free growing around Edmonton. Around Alberta, it varies: Calgary’s growing season is quite a bit shorter: around 90 days. In the foothills of the mountains, it could get down to 75 days. Meanwhile, in warmer areas such as Brooks and Medicine Hat, their growing season is about 130 days.” It helps explain why southern Alberta centres, such as Taber, are famous for their juicy corn.

As if latitude, longitude and topography weren’t enough to worry about, there’s a rural/urban split at work in Alberta’s gardens. Edmonton and Calgary both receive a temperature boost from roads and buildings that retain summer heat, thereby moderating night-time chills. “[city dwellers are] always up to five degrees warmer than we are (in the country). So your plants mature more quickly and are less likely to succumb to unexpected frosts in the spring,” Anderson says.

Different areas will lead to better varieties and better specialisation. Edmonton and north grows better broccoli and cold crops such as cabbage, cauliflower, and onion. “We love to grow corn and pickling cucumbers,” Anderson says. But, located in central Alberta, she can’t always count on Bon Accord’s weather. “Some years we have crop disasters. But the spirit of the gardener is always hardy,” she says. “We live in next year’s country.”

de Jonge concurs. “The onions you grow here, you wouldn’t want to grow at the equator. Seed selection, that’s where everything starts. Usually what you buy locally, works locally.”

For the ardent gardener, however, a trip to the local garden centre might not satisfy. With an understanding of the growing season in your region, and how much light your yard receives, you too can purchase more obscure varieties of vegetables from seed catalogues.

“I probably have about fifteen seed catalogues at my fingertips,” Anderson admits. “My favourite companies are www.johnnyseeds.com, www.stokesseeds.com, and www.veseyseeds.com,” she says. Vesey Seeds is from Prince Edward Island where cool growing, short-season crops also do well. Commercial growers like Anderson read up on the catalogues and order early in the year, but, she says, “we like to beat everyone to the punch. Companies take around 10 days to ship seeds. I wouldn’t leave it later than the end of March.”

The advantage of selecting seeds from a seed catalogue, according to Anderson, is that you can fine-tune harvest dates for different varieties of the same vegetable. So you can have fresh peas for a month, instead of a week. (See sidebar)

Uninvited Guests

So you’ve got your soil ready, you’ve figured out what seeds work best for your growing region, you’ve planted those seeds, and things are going really well.

Then come the uninvited guests. Birds, bugs, and weeds.

“People ask me all the time what to do about birds,” says de Jonge. “I grow enough strawberries so that there are a few for them and a lot for me.” He concedes that in the city, to discourage the birds gardeners could install netting when the fruit starts to ripen.

For plants like peppers, de Jonge says that he plants some eggplant nearby. “The bugs prefer eggplant to the peppers.”

Anderson adds that marigolds are deterrents to pests such as cabbage butterflies. “Planting herbs that flower prolifically early, such as borage, encourages the bees to visit often. Cucumbers and squash need to be pollinated by bees.” Corn and tomatoes, in contrast, are pollinated by the wind, which is why they just don’t do well in enclosed greenhouses.

As for those weeds, mulching unseeded areas helps, but the real solution is elbow grease.

Composting

The Outdoor Bin

“For an outdoor composter,” Michael Kalmanovitch of Edmonton’s Earth’s General Store explains, “a bin is always nice. You can make a corral from wood, cement blocks, chicken wire, or used pallets - anything that corals the pile of compostable material in a tidy area. Or you can go out and buy a plastic one, ready made.”

It’s best to put the pile on soil or grass (instead of pavement) to increase drainage and permit earthworms to have a go at the pile, too. For the sake of your neighbours, it’s probably best to compost in a discrete location in your yard.

You can add a vast array of materials to your compost. The obvious is vege-table scraps and yard waste, but eggshells, coffee grinds, human hair, dryer lint, even small amounts of shredded newspaper and shredded cardboard can also go in. In order to avoid attracting animals, don’t include meat, bones, and add only small amounts of dairy products. Also avoid adding toxic plants - such as rhubarb leaves, for example.

Though composting is as old as civilization - remember, it’s what garbage dumps used to be, before the advent of plastics and disposable everything - there is a bit of a trick to getting the good nutrient-rich material that will help your garden grow.

Kalmanovitch breaks down the science of composting to three simple requirements: food, air, and moisture.

The right balance can be achieved by adding the proper blend of dry-wet and green-brown materials to your compost. If you just add dry, brown leaves, you’ll have to wait a very long time for compost. Too much wet stuff and you risk rot. But if you alternate dry leaves with damp, green grass clippings and damp food scraps and coffee grounds, you’ll be turning out rich, garden-ready compost in much less time.

“The bacteria in the compost bin like moisture, but not too much,” Kalmanovitch says. “Bin contents should feel like a well-wrung-out washcloth.”

Worms

Kalmanovitch says that the typical gardener will rely mostly on her outdoor composter to enhance the soil in her backyard plot. Sometimes, however, an indoor worm composter is useful.

“Worm composting produces better-quality compost than outdoor composting,” he says. It’s an excellent fertilizer for such things as seedlings and transplants. All-natural, it releases nutrients slowly, whereas synthetic fertilizers release more quickly, he says.

For a worm composter, you need a covered plastic tub-type container with holes punched through the lid, some starter soil, and, of course, worms. It should be kept in the house, somewhere neither too warm nor too cold. “A lot of gardeners will use it as a side dressing” to normal compost, says Kalmanovitch.

Gardening Myths

Tam Anderson of Prairie Gardens in Bon Accord dispels some of the myths of gardening.

Myth #1: You have to wait until the May long weekend to plant a garden.

From the perspective of a commercial gardener, this is way too late. We start much earlier - a whole month ahead of the May seeding date. Early is good! You can seed almost everything, say, in late April. Also: there is a very short growing season for corn. I try to seed by May 1. If it’s not planted by the 15th of May, it won’t mature by the frost.

Myth #2: You should grow the vegetables you like to buy from the grocery store.

In my own backyard garden, I like to grow what I can’t buy in the grocery store, things I can’t even find in the farmer’s market. Purple carrots, cape gooseberries (orange berries that have the flavour of a tangerine crossed with a pear), neon and cheddar cauliflowers. Varieties of carrots, like the sweet, coreless Nantes, are difficult to store and transport, so rarely make it to grocery store. They are the varieties that you should consider seeding.

Myth #3: You have to seed your garden all at once.

In reality, we seed maybe three or four times, successively, over the summer. That way, our harvest is spread out, rather than just a flash in the pan. I seed things like lettuce once every three or four weeks so I have beautiful lettuce throughout the summer and into the fall.

Myth #4: You have to seed one variety of pea, one variety of potato, and one variety of corn, and so on.

We choose different varieties that are 10 days apart in maturity. Don’t just plant one type of pea, but three or four. That way, you can have peas for a month, rather than for one glorious week.



	Food for Thought Magazine > Current Issue > Past Issues > Food for Thought on CTV > Food for Thought Gift Pack > Photo contest > Subscribe today! > Contest Rules and Regulations > About Food for Thought > Advertising Information Special Content for: > Parents and Teachers > Media > Industry and Producers The GROWING ALBERTA LEADERSHIP AWARDS were presented at the 11th Annual Harvest Gala on October 17th in Calgary. Find out more about the 2008 recipients. Click here. Take your fork on the road - visit Chomp Around Alberta to enjoy Alberta's marvellous food secrets! Visit our Market Place Craving quality Alberta food or innovative services? See what's new in Growing Alberta's Market Place.	Coming Up Veggies This year, the only thing standing between you and the perfect veggie-packed urban garden is a little sound advice. And a lot of honest work Story By Jay Smith Gardens begin in the realm of culinary fantasy: cornucopias of colourful vegetables spill forth into your kitchen, arranging themselves in perfect piles of brilliantly orange carrots, crunchy fresh greens, and tomatoes that taste like epiphany. As any backyard gardener will admit, however, the progression from an untilled quack-grass-infested backyard plot and a couple packages of seeds to a harvest of vegetables fit for the gods is not always straightforward. Unexpected frosts and garden pests are the obvious obstacles, but there’s a lot of fine-tuning that is needed to ensure your garden grows the lush veggies you’re dreaming about. Take heart: there’s plenty of advice to be had - from specialty shops, and gardening shows, to critical neighbours. And then there are the experts, those folks with a vested interest in hoeing the straightest row and nurturing the healthiest soil: farmers themselves. Here are their tips, tricks, and best bets for your backyard plot. Meet the panel of Food For Thought experts: Tam Anderson of Prairie Gardens in Bon Accord, Paul de Jonge of Broxburn Vegetables outside of Lethbridge, Jim Hole of Hole’s Gardens in St. Albert and Michael Kalmano-vitch of Earth’s General Store in Edmonton. They can help you coax the best from your backyard. More Than Just Dirt Though it sounds mundane, your garden begins with the soil, so you can’t underestimate its importance. Soil conditions can make or break your backyard plot. Even non-gardeners typically have an intuitive sense of whether their soil is good: pale, crunchy dirt or sandy dirt, for instance, both scream “bad growing!” whereas the dark, heavy, rich stuff has the consistency that you know Mother Earth intended. Jim Hole, gardening expert at Hole’s Green-house and gardens, considers soil so important that he suggests the first thing you do is “go and get a good load of soil, rather than trying to change what you have, and put the new soil in. I like to say a foot of topsoil is good. Though others say six inches, I like to have deeper topsoil. It makes such an improvement.” Hole says you can buy the soil in bags at the garden centre or, if you need more, you can order in. He also recommends that you add compost to the soil throughout the growing season. “Even if you start out with good soil, you need always to be building it up. Otherwise, the soil will erode and its quality will degrade.” “Composting is the magic bullet for gardening, as far as I’m concerned,” says a very enthusiastic Michael Kalmanovitch of Earth’s General Store. “I don’t like to use the words Ômagic bullet’ for many things, but, as far as composting goes, you shouldn’t be growing if you’re not composting as well.” Kalmano-vitch has been supporting composting since his store opened, more than 15 years ago. (Although it no longer sells conventional composters, it remains one of the few places in Edmonton where you can purchase worms for worm composting.) Kalmanovitch’s passion for compost derives from its ability to increase the nutritive value of the soil and its potency as a “soil amendment” capable of improving soils too high in clay or sand, while regulating pH balance. Beyond your garden, compost has an impressive environmental impact: it diverts up to 27 per cent of domestic waste from landfills. Even though Edmonton has a world-class composting facility, which diverts almost all compostible material from the garbage, many municipalities don’t. “You say that you want to grow your own vegetables, but you throw all your waste leaves, stems, and stalks into the garbage!” Kalmanovitch exclaims. “The organic value of the soil goes downÉ and eventually you’ll have to add something to the soil. If you’re growing without composting, you’re only dealing with two-thirds of the growing cycle, as far as I’m concerned.” Plan Your Garden Maybe you’ve been planting the same section of your backyard for 10 years, or maybe this is your first year. Either way, take a minute to consider (or reconsider) the lay of the land. Taking into account your growing region, the sort of sunlight your yard receives, and what sort of seeds are best suited to these conditions will help to make yours a bumper crop this year. For newer gardeners, however, Tam Anderson, who farms near Bon Accord, has an insight on how big to make your little Eden: start on the small side. “A tip I learned from Lois Hole: Never seed more than you can hoe. Even though weeding can be a Zen-like activity, there is a limit,” Anderson says. “If you’re going to be hand-hoeing, be judicious in what you plant.” Going to the trouble of getting good seeds and preparing the soil is to no avail if you can’t bring yourself to find your seedlings amidst quack grass and dandelions. Paul de Jonge, who farms near Lethbridge, agrees that it’s important to be realistic from the start about how much time and energy you have to devote. “You may love broccoli, but if you’re not prepared to baby-sit, you’re going to eat a lot of caterpillars and not a lot of broccoli,” he says. If you don’t have the time for labour-intensive crops, don’t grow them. Simpler crops like potatoes and onions are a lot easier. Even carrots and beets can go awhile without weeding or scrutiny for wiggling pests. And while you’re planning, consider which direction your garden faces. Jim Hole points out that gardens receiving southern or western light grow heat-loving crops a lot better than ones receiving northern light. Although there are challenges with drying soil in sunny southern-facing plots, you can grow most anything if you remember to water well. Maybe your yard is northern- or eastern-facing, with overarching oak branches shading your plot. “There’s not a lot you can do,” Hole says. “Depending on how shady it is - you can grow green onions, lettuce, shade annuals and perennials. There are more limitations.” Regions and Seeds Alberta farmers simply can’t grow the lush variety of crops that our neighbours in British Columbia can. “The growing season is truly not long in Alberta,” says de Jonge. “If you plant in May, you have June, July and August for harvesting. But it’s worth the effort.” Tam Anderson explains. “There are usually between 110 and 120 days of frost-free growing around Edmonton. Around Alberta, it varies: Calgary’s growing season is quite a bit shorter: around 90 days. In the foothills of the mountains, it could get down to 75 days. Meanwhile, in warmer areas such as Brooks and Medicine Hat, their growing season is about 130 days.” It helps explain why southern Alberta centres, such as Taber, are famous for their juicy corn. As if latitude, longitude and topography weren’t enough to worry about, there’s a rural/urban split at work in Alberta’s gardens. Edmonton and Calgary both receive a temperature boost from roads and buildings that retain summer heat, thereby moderating night-time chills. “[city dwellers are] always up to five degrees warmer than we are (in the country). So your plants mature more quickly and are less likely to succumb to unexpected frosts in the spring,” Anderson says. Different areas will lead to better varieties and better specialisation. Edmonton and north grows better broccoli and cold crops such as cabbage, cauliflower, and onion. “We love to grow corn and pickling cucumbers,” Anderson says. But, located in central Alberta, she can’t always count on Bon Accord’s weather. “Some years we have crop disasters. But the spirit of the gardener is always hardy,” she says. “We live in next year’s country.” de Jonge concurs. “The onions you grow here, you wouldn’t want to grow at the equator. Seed selection, that’s where everything starts. Usually what you buy locally, works locally.” For the ardent gardener, however, a trip to the local garden centre might not satisfy. With an understanding of the growing season in your region, and how much light your yard receives, you too can purchase more obscure varieties of vegetables from seed catalogues. “I probably have about fifteen seed catalogues at my fingertips,” Anderson admits. “My favourite companies are www.johnnyseeds.com, www.stokesseeds.com, and www.veseyseeds.com,” she says. Vesey Seeds is from Prince Edward Island where cool growing, short-season crops also do well. Commercial growers like Anderson read up on the catalogues and order early in the year, but, she says, “we like to beat everyone to the punch. Companies take around 10 days to ship seeds. I wouldn’t leave it later than the end of March.” The advantage of selecting seeds from a seed catalogue, according to Anderson, is that you can fine-tune harvest dates for different varieties of the same vegetable. So you can have fresh peas for a month, instead of a week. (See sidebar) Uninvited Guests So you’ve got your soil ready, you’ve figured out what seeds work best for your growing region, you’ve planted those seeds, and things are going really well. Then come the uninvited guests. Birds, bugs, and weeds. “People ask me all the time what to do about birds,” says de Jonge. “I grow enough strawberries so that there are a few for them and a lot for me.” He concedes that in the city, to discourage the birds gardeners could install netting when the fruit starts to ripen. For plants like peppers, de Jonge says that he plants some eggplant nearby. “The bugs prefer eggplant to the peppers.” Anderson adds that marigolds are deterrents to pests such as cabbage butterflies. “Planting herbs that flower prolifically early, such as borage, encourages the bees to visit often. Cucumbers and squash need to be pollinated by bees.” Corn and tomatoes, in contrast, are pollinated by the wind, which is why they just don’t do well in enclosed greenhouses. As for those weeds, mulching unseeded areas helps, but the real solution is elbow grease. Composting The Outdoor Bin “For an outdoor composter,” Michael Kalmanovitch of Edmonton’s Earth’s General Store explains, “a bin is always nice. You can make a corral from wood, cement blocks, chicken wire, or used pallets - anything that corals the pile of compostable material in a tidy area. Or you can go out and buy a plastic one, ready made.” It’s best to put the pile on soil or grass (instead of pavement) to increase drainage and permit earthworms to have a go at the pile, too. For the sake of your neighbours, it’s probably best to compost in a discrete location in your yard. You can add a vast array of materials to your compost. The obvious is vege-table scraps and yard waste, but eggshells, coffee grinds, human hair, dryer lint, even small amounts of shredded newspaper and shredded cardboard can also go in. In order to avoid attracting animals, don’t include meat, bones, and add only small amounts of dairy products. Also avoid adding toxic plants - such as rhubarb leaves, for example. Though composting is as old as civilization - remember, it’s what garbage dumps used to be, before the advent of plastics and disposable everything - there is a bit of a trick to getting the good nutrient-rich material that will help your garden grow. Kalmanovitch breaks down the science of composting to three simple requirements: food, air, and moisture. The right balance can be achieved by adding the proper blend of dry-wet and green-brown materials to your compost. If you just add dry, brown leaves, you’ll have to wait a very long time for compost. Too much wet stuff and you risk rot. But if you alternate dry leaves with damp, green grass clippings and damp food scraps and coffee grounds, you’ll be turning out rich, garden-ready compost in much less time. “The bacteria in the compost bin like moisture, but not too much,” Kalmanovitch says. “Bin contents should feel like a well-wrung-out washcloth.” Worms Kalmanovitch says that the typical gardener will rely mostly on her outdoor composter to enhance the soil in her backyard plot. Sometimes, however, an indoor worm composter is useful. “Worm composting produces better-quality compost than outdoor composting,” he says. It’s an excellent fertilizer for such things as seedlings and transplants. All-natural, it releases nutrients slowly, whereas synthetic fertilizers release more quickly, he says. For a worm composter, you need a covered plastic tub-type container with holes punched through the lid, some starter soil, and, of course, worms. It should be kept in the house, somewhere neither too warm nor too cold. “A lot of gardeners will use it as a side dressing” to normal compost, says Kalmanovitch. Gardening Myths Tam Anderson of Prairie Gardens in Bon Accord dispels some of the myths of gardening. Myth #1: You have to wait until the May long weekend to plant a garden. From the perspective of a commercial gardener, this is way too late. We start much earlier - a whole month ahead of the May seeding date. Early is good! You can seed almost everything, say, in late April. Also: there is a very short growing season for corn. I try to seed by May 1. If it’s not planted by the 15th of May, it won’t mature by the frost. Myth #2: You should grow the vegetables you like to buy from the grocery store. In my own backyard garden, I like to grow what I can’t buy in the grocery store, things I can’t even find in the farmer’s market. Purple carrots, cape gooseberries (orange berries that have the flavour of a tangerine crossed with a pear), neon and cheddar cauliflowers. Varieties of carrots, like the sweet, coreless Nantes, are difficult to store and transport, so rarely make it to grocery store. They are the varieties that you should consider seeding. Myth #3: You have to seed your garden all at once. In reality, we seed maybe three or four times, successively, over the summer. That way, our harvest is spread out, rather than just a flash in the pan. I seed things like lettuce once every three or four weeks so I have beautiful lettuce throughout the summer and into the fall. Myth #4: You have to seed one variety of pea, one variety of potato, and one variety of corn, and so on. We choose different varieties that are 10 days apart in maturity. Don’t just plant one type of pea, but three or four. That way, you can have peas for a month, rather than for one glorious week.	Subscribe Today! 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