In their kitchens

Welcome to the first in a new series that profiles Alberta chefs and cooks in their kitchens - on the job and at home. We'll be bringing you their professional tips for memorable meals, easy entertaining and ingredient shopping that takes home cooking to a whole new level of fun and freshness.

We're kicking off the series with executive Chef Scott Pohorelic of the River Cafe a gourmet oasis tucked in the heart of Calgary's Prince's Island Park - and his tips for an unforgettable brunch.

Make Brunch a Walk in the Park

Simple food cooked with care creates the perfect ambiance for a leisurely and unforgettable meal.

Story by Lynn Haley - Photography by Ewan Nicholson

Just walking to the River Cafe (you can't drive to it) evokes that easy, relaxed feeling. It's the kind of feeling that puts you in the mood for a memorable meal spent with people who appreciate wholesome food, liberally seasoned with good conversation, spiked with a splash of bubbly and gently spread over an endless, lazy morning.

To get to the restaurant, you need to walk across a bridge, down a winding path and through the woods. There, nestled in the stately trees that grace the banks of the Bow River, you'll discover a Rocky Mountain style lodge complete with a huge river stone fireplace, welcoming willow furniture and walls full of fishing memorabilia. 

It's the quest to create harmony with their environment that defines the River Cafe unique style. Executive chef Scott Pohorelic, who spent his childhood summers foraging for wild berries and nibbling on veggies out of his grandparents' garden, believes in using fresh, local, naturally produced ingredients.

"We use a simple approach that lets quality ingredients speak for themselves. We like to believe we're a special destination  for guests coming here for the first or the 50th time. Our mission is to ensure everyone experiences exquisite food made from scratch. To accomplish this, we use the freshest and best ingredients we can find."

Where does he find them? "We do our homework," he responds. "We seek out quality suppliers at farmers' markets, and our radar screen is constantly tuned to emerging products. As well, farmers seem to find us."

One example is their long-term partnership with Highwood Crossing Farms. Highwood grows an exclusive organic garden for the River Cafe filled with veggies and herbs. "We've come to recognize the value of producers who understand the quality specifications our customers expect," says Pohorelic. Currently, owner Sal Howell is negotiating with the City of Calgary to gain approval for a roof top garden - irrigated with recycled, purified water from the restaurant - where they could grow edible flowers.

The restaurant has also forged relationships with local meat suppliers including lamb, elk, bison and venison ranchers. "Buying directly from producers means working with whole animals," Pohorelic points out. "Individual producers don't have the luxury of selling specific cuts, but we see this as an advantage. It's forced us to be creative because we have to build recipes that use every cut. That's made us better chefs."

Blissful Brunch

So, what makes for a perfect brunch experience? Pohorelic describes it as a light, flavourful meal drenched in relaxation. "At the restaurant, we cater to those who want to make brunch a 'time out' experience, not a command performance that's formal or stuffy. Our guests want to hang out for as long as they need, and enjoy wholesome food that's presented in very unique ways. No one needs to be worried about the time - except us. We don't want to be overcooking anything!"

And on his home front?  "Brunch is about the people you've invited," says Pohorelic. "As the cook, you want to make sure you can do things ahead of time so you can enjoy your guests."

He suggests a varied, yet simple menu with dishes served one at a time so everyone can enjoy nibbling at their leisure. Start off with a nice glass of bubbly mixed with fresh squeezed orange juice; for those who prefer a non-alcoholic beverage, make a pot of fresh wild mint tea sweetened with a dollop of fresh Alberta honey. Include dishes such as locally made yogurt served with fresh berries and scones served right out of the oven then slathered with homemade or market-bought jams. To save time, mix your ingredients for the scones the night before.

Try a homemade granola brimming with nuts, seeds and dried fruits. This can be made a week in advance. For those with a craving for protein, serve locally smoked wild boar bacon, Alberta spiced sausage or an omelette stuffed with fresh spinach, tomatoes and cheese.

Pohorelic recommends allowing three hours from start to finish. Remember, this is an experience to be savoured.

River Cafe Raspberry Chocolate Scones

Best served warm - straight from the oven.

4 cups (1 L)               all purpose white flour 
1⁄2 cup (125 mL)      yellow sugar
1/2 cup (125 mL)      rolled oats
1 tsp (5 mL)               salt
1 tsp (5 mL)               ground cinnamon
1 1⁄2 tsp (7 mL)         baking powder 
1 1⁄2 cups (340 mL) unsalted butter (cold and diced)
1⁄2 cup (125 mL)      whipping cream
2 cups (500 mL)       fresh or frozen raspberries
1 cup (250 mL)         white chocolate chunks

Scott's Homemade Granola

Wonderful for brunch, but perfect for breakfast or snacking any day of the week. Try it stirred into yogurt or spooned on top of ice cream.

3 cups (750 mL)    rolled oats
1⁄4 cup (50 mL)      each of chopped almonds, hazelnuts and pecans
1⁄4 cup (50 mL)      each of pumpkin and sunflower seeds
2 tbsp (30 mL)        flax seeds
1⁄4 tsp (1 mL)         each of ground ginger, nutmeg and cinnamon
1⁄2 cup (125 mL)   demerara sugar
1⁄4 cup (50 mL)      oil (walnut is best for flavour, but canola will also work well) 
1⁄2 cup (125 mL)    honey (buckwheat is best)

Combine all of the dry ingredients and mix well. Add the honey and oil and mix well again. Spread out on a baking tray and bake at 350°F (175°C) until golden brown (about 15 minutes). Make sure you stir once or twice while baking and again once or twice while cooling. Once cool, store in an airtight container at room temperature. Can be stored up to 4 weeks. Makes 12 half-cup portions.

Asparagus and Morel Mushroom Frittata

Morel mushrooms and Leoni-Grana Parmesan are a match made in heaven.

2 tsp (10 mL)        shallots, minced
1 tsp (5 mL)          garlic, minced
1/2 tsp (2 mL)       ginger, minced
2 cups (500 mL)   fresh morels, cleaned and sliced (or substitute shitakes, rehydrated dry morels or any type of mushroom)
1/2 cup (125 mL)  leeks, sliced (white only)
2 cups (500 mL)   asparagus, *blanched, shocked and sliced
1 cup (250 mL)     Parmesan cheese, grated
6                              whole eggs
1/4 cup (50 mL)    heavy cream
1/4 tsp (1 mL)        fresh grated ground nutmeg
1/2 cup  (125 mL) aged white cheddar, grated
2 tbsp (30 mL)       fresh herbs (such as parsley or chives)

In a non-stick pan, saut頴he shallots, garlic and ginger for a couple minutes with about 1 tbsp (15 mL) of olive oil. Add the morels and the leeks and continue cooking until the liquid has escaped from the mushrooms but then has evaporated again. In a bowl, beat the eggs with the cream, asparagus, nutmeg, herbs and Parmesan cheese and season with salt and pepper.

Add the egg mixture to the pan with the mushrooms. Cook over medium heat, stirring until the egg starts to thicken. Stop stirring and begin pushing the edges towards the centre, allowing the liquid to fall to the bottom of the pan (approximately five to six minutes). When the liquid is mostly cooked, sprinkle the white cheddar on top and place in an oven preheated to 400°F (205°C). Cook until the frittata is almost set (approximately 12 minutes). It should still be a little soft in the middle. Serves 4 to 6.