For your bookshelf

The Last of the Best

Story by Dee Van Dyk

The Best of Bridge ladies close a chapter on their 30-year career with the publication of their final cookbook.

I confess.  I’ve loved the Best of Bridge ladies since 1988 when I picked up the original Best of Bridge cookbook. First published in 1986, it was already in its eighth printing. The bright red cover of my copy has long since been torn off and its pages are liberally decorated with the crayon work of my daughter, now 19 years old and with a set of Best of Bridge cookbooks of her own.

The appeal of this well-known set of recipe books has clearly stood the test of time. Nine bestselling books, 1,873 recipes, three million cookbook sales and nearly 30 years later, these six Calgary women – Karen Brimacombe, Mary Halpen, Linda Jacobson, Helen Miles, Val Robinson and Joan Wilson – continue to be the culinary backbone for a substantial following of Canadians.

With the August 2004 publication of The Rest of the Best and More: Recipes from the Best of Bridge Series, Volume 2, another generation has a wedding shower gift of choice, a first pick for a good home-cooked meal and the fallback publication for dinner for company. Just as I did in 1988, a new generation of Canadians is picking up the Best of Bridge for one primary reason: simple recipes that yield gourmet results.

A regular bridge game was the genesis of the first book, when the ladies decided the food prepared and served at their bridge games was more important than the game itself.

“We were out at a cottage in spring in 1975, International Women’s Year, and we were enjoying the food so much, someone said we should write a cookbook,” recalls Mary Halpen. “Joan said we should call it the Best of Bridge because the best part of bridge is eating.”

That first book was chock full of family favourites and started the women on a 30-year trip to cooking celebrity status. None of the women had publishing experience or background in professional cooking, but that didn’t slow them down. Recipes like Hamburger Soup, Crab Casserole and Japanese Chicken Wings quickly became favourites in Alberta and soon, Canadian, kitchens.

Having cooked for their collective families for years, they knew what they liked and they knew what worked. These days, the Best of Bridge ladies are bouncing grandchildren on their laps instead of children, but they continue to respond to a changing audience. Today’s home cooks are busy balancing career and family and they want quick recipes using fresh, wholesome ingredients easily found on supermarket shelves.

This latest offering, The Rest of the Best, blends past favourites with more than 100 new recipes and reflects the trend toward healthier eating habits. The cookbook is a hefty 285 pages and is a companion to their 1998 publication The Best of the Best and More. It’s also signature Best of Bridge – coil bound with handwritten recipes and one-liners at the bottom of most pages. Released in October 2004, the cookbook has already sold 130,000 copies.

Their cosy writing style promotes a feeling that the Best of Bridge ladies are more than cooking/publishing entrepreneurs; they’re friends passing on recipes. Hand-lettered beneath one recipe: “Swimming pool – a small body of water completely surrounded by neighbours.” Under another, “A highbrow is a person who can listen to the William Tell Overture without thinking of the lone ranger.”

“Our intention is that this will be our last book,” says Halpen. “We don’t know what the future will hold, but it takes four years to produce a book and we don’t plan on having that kind of energy in four years.

“But basically, the business will be around as long as we want it to be,” adds Halpen with a laugh. “We’re going to have to make a decision about what our exit plan will be, but every time we talk about it we can’t decide what to do, so we just don’t do anything.”

In the short term and over the next few years, the ladies will be busy promoting their two compilation books, The Best of the Best and More (Volume 1) and The Rest of the Best (Volume 2).  Their website, recently renovated, offers sample recipes and online ordering. One senses life will continue to be busy for these ladies and that they will find success in whatever they choose as their next venture.

Chicken Lettuce Wraps

An appetizer party hit.

3⁄4 cup (175 mL)   hoisin sauce
1-1⁄2 tsp (7 mL)     rice vinegar
1 tbsp (15 mL)       liquid honey
2 tbsp (30 mL)       water
1 tbsp (15 mL)       fresh lime juice
2 tsp (10 mL)         sesame oil
1                               large garlic clove, minced
1 tsp (5 mL)           freshly grated ginger
2                               boneless chicken breasts
1/3 cup (75 mL)    grated carrot
2                               green onions, diagonally sliced
1 cup (250 mL)      dry steam-fried noodles
1/2 cup (125 mL)   unsalted peanuts, chopped
1 head                     iceberg lettuce, separated into whole leaves, core removed

In a small saucepan, over medium-low heat, blend sauce ingredients. Set aside to cool. Poach chicken in a small amount of water until no longer pink. Cool. Cut each breast in half horizontally and then dice to about 1⁄4 inch (6 mm). In medium bowl, toss chicken, carrots and onion with enough sauce to coat. Let stand for 15 minutes. Add noodles and peanuts; gently toss with more sauce to coat.

To Serve: Set out lettuce and chicken mixture. Let guests wrap their own. Serve extra sauce on the side.

Baked Corn Pudding with a Kick

Partners well with ham or roast pork.

4 tbsp (60 mL)              butter, divided
2 cups (500 mL)           frozen kernel corn, thawed
1 cup (250 mL)             whole milk
2 cups (500 mL)           finely chopped onion
6                                       green onions, chopped
1 tbsp (15 mL)               diced Serrano chili pepper
4                                        large eggs
1 tbsp (15 mL)                flour
3/4 tsp (3 mL)                 salt
1/2 tsp (2 mL)                 pepper
1-1/2 cups (375 mL)     grated Parmesan cheese

Melt 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add corn and sauté 5 minutes. Add milk; reduce heat to medium. Cover and simmer 5 minutes. Transfer to a food processor; purée until it reaches a coarse consistency. Melt remaining butter in the same pan. Add onions and chili pepper; sauté about 4 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in corn purée. Cool 15 minutes. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). In a small bowl, beat eggs, flour, salt and pepper. Stir in 1 cup (250 mL) cheese. Stir egg mixture into corn mixture. Transfer to a greased 7 x 11 inch (18 cm x 28 cm) glass baking dish.

Sprinkle with remaining cheese and bake until golden, about 40 minutes. To reheat, bake for 25 minutes. Serves 4-6.