Brad Cooks - Cut above the rest

Story by Brad Smoliak and Kim Tannas
Photography by Bluefish

Many people often wonder how they can create delicious, gourmet meat dishes without the cost. Here’s what Brad has to say…

Did you know that some of the most economical meat selections in your local grocery store can also be some of the most delicious? Cuts like hocks, chucks, shanks and shoulders are often overlooked in favour of prime cuts like sirloin, rib and tenderloin, but with a little extra attention they can offer tantalizing dinner options.

Coaxing the Flavour

One of the things to remember when choosing meats is that the further the cut is away from the hoof, the more tender the meat. So, for instance, shanks and hocks are not as tender as cuts like rib and tenderloin, which come from the back of the animal. For cuts that can be tough if not prepared right, it is important to maximize flavour by using classic slower cooking techniques such as stewing, braising or marinating. These cooking methods help to break down the meat and release its rich flavour and tenderness.

One particularly effective cooking technique is a two-step method which involves first browning the meat and then simmering it in liquid in a covered pot – either by stewing or braising. Stewing involves cutting the meat into smaller, almost bite-sized pieces, as you would with a beef or pork stew. With braising, the product is left whole as you would with a pot roast or beef brisket. This slow-cooking method can be used with cuts of meat such as pork shoulder, pork hocks, lamb shanks, beef short ribs and cross ribs as well as beef blade, to name a few.

Patience Yields Perfection

A simple yet often neglected procedure, browning helps to seal in moisture and also adds depth of flavour and colour to the meat. To brown, first pat the meat dry. Then season liberally with salt and pepper. Dust the meat with flour and brown on all sides in a heavy-bottomed pan at medium-high to high heat. Then remove the meat and deglaze the bottom of the pan. Deglazing simply means adding some liquid and scraping all of the bits stuck to the bottom of the pan to help bring flavour and moisture to your served meat. Any liquid can be used but a combination of wine and/or beer and chicken or beef stock is particularly tasty. Two cups of liquid is a good guideline for a two to three pound roast.

Next, place your meat back in your pot and add the deglazed liquid so it covers two-thirds of the meat. Then add flavourings – approximately one tablespoon of dry herbs or a couple of sprigs of fresh herbs plus a cup each of carrots, sliced onions and diced celery. Cover and simmer in the oven at 300ºF (150ºC). To test for doneness, pierce the meat with a fork. If it comes out easily, the meat is done. Braising usually takes at least three hours for a typical roast.

While the actual cooking time is longer than what you may be used to, the results are a rich-tasting, comforting dish that’s easy on your pocketbook. •

Good Bets for Creative Cuts

Smoked Pork Hocks
One of my favourites, since they are already cooked. Just drop them into your favourite soup recipe or gently simmer in plain water or stock, then remove fat and shred the meat and use it in tacos or salads or on risotto.

Lamb Shanks
Great with rosemary, carrots, onions, garlic and fennel. For an Asian flavor, use curry paste/powder and ginger instead of the rosemary and fennel.

Chuck Roast
The quintessential pot roast. To make it Italian-inspired, add canned tomatoes, garlic and thyme to the braising liquid. Add olives to the reduced sauce (recipe follows).

Italian-Style Pot Roast

Braising makes this Italian-inspired pot roast tender and delicious.

2 to 3 lb                 chuck roast
2 tbsp (30 mL)     canola or olive oil
1                             medium onion, sliced
1-14 oz                  can whole tomatoes, with liquid
1 cup (250 mL)    beef stock or water
1 cup (250 mL)    red wine
2 tbsp (30 mL)     balsamic vinegar
6                             sprigs of thyme
4-6                         whole garlic cloves
1/4 cup (50 mL)   flour
2 tsp (10 mL)       kosher salt
1 tsp (56 mL)       pepper
3 tbsp (45 mL)     chopped parsley
1/2 cup (125 mL) olives, chopped (optional)

1 cup (250 mL)    each, diced onions, carrots and celery

Heat a heavy Dutch oven (or a heavy bottomed pan with a tight-fitting lid) over medium high heat.  Season the beef with salt and pepper, generously, and then dust with flour to evenly coat. Pour oil into pan and brown roast on all sides. Remove meat from pan, reduce heat, remove any excess fat, and then add the onion and sauté until soft.  Add the stock, wine, tomatoes, vinegar, thyme and garlic cloves.  Bring to a boil, then gently place roast back in the pot. Add the carrots and diced celery. Cover with tight-fitting lid or wrap with foil. Braise in oven at 300 degrees C for about 3 hours or until tender when pierced with a fork.