Since you asked

STORY BY DEBBIE OLSEN
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARTIN LIPMAN

How does today’s science fit into our definition of healthy food?

Scientists and moms agree—good food is healthy food. But today, good food to a scientist is far more complex than mom could ever imagine; it has a new meaning that embraces innovations unheard of 30 to 40 years ago.

Terms like functional foods, nutraceuticals and genetically modified foods are now bandied about casually. For many of us, the whole business of food science can be a bit overwhelming. For example, how do we know what the right choices are when it comes to genetically modified (GM) foods? Proponents say that GM foods are the answer to better health and have the potential to solve some of the world’s hunger problems, while others express concerns about genetically modified crops and how they may affect our planet’s ecosystems.

There has been a lot of media coverage on this controversial topic since the first genetically modified crop was approved by Health Canada more than ten years ago. Today, 80% of canola farmers are using GM seed and there are fifty genetically modified or “novel” foods approved for use in Canada.

How do we separate fact from fiction when it comes to biotechnology? How do we know if we’re making the right choices for our own health? It starts by knowing the facts. Here’s some information that may help clear the fog.

WHAT IS A GM FOOD?

Here’s what it boils down to—a genetically modified plant has had its DNA altered to make it do something—something desirable for human health or the environment.

The genetic modification may or may not be present in food that comes from a genetically modified plant. For example, in Roundup Ready canola, the altered DNA occurs in the leaves and stems of the plants, but is not present in the oil that is used for food such as canola oil or margarine.

Genetic modification has been used in canola, soybeans and corn to make plants more resistant to pests and to decrease the amount of pesticides farmers need to use to grow their crops. Other desirable traits of a GM food product can include longer shelf life, increased production, better growth in colder or hotter temperatures, drought resistance, or a more nutrient-rich final product.

FUNCTIONAL FOODS AND NUTRACEUTICALS

Not to be confused with GM Foods are two other unique food categories. While the terms functional foods and nutraceuticals are sometimes used interchangeably there are subtle differences between the two. Both of them however, offer medical and/or physiological benefits.

Health Canada defines a functional food as a whole food that has been enhanced to offer a health benefit. Examples include yogurt made with probiotic bacteria that improves gut health or margarine made with oil high in omega-3 fatty acids, which in sufficient quantity can lower blood triglyceride levels thereby decreasing the risk of heart disease. These are not GM foods, because neither one have had DNA modified.

Nutraceuticals are products made from ingredients that have been isolated or purified from agricultural products, such as canola or oats, and are sold in pills or capsules. For example, if you ate a nutritious snack bar that was made with oat bran (which contains beta glucan, recognized for its cholesterol lowering effect), you’d be munching on a functional food. If that beta glucan was extracted from the oat bran and put into a pill, you’d have a nutraceutical. In Canada, there is a movement underway to call nutraceuticals ‘natural health products’.

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN FUNCTIONAL AND GM FOODS?

So, what makes GM and functional foods different? Remember the rule of thumb—GM foods have had their DNA altered. Functional foods can be created by simply adding ingredients or by enhancing naturally occurring ingredients to create health benefits.

But, here’s the fine line. A functional food becomes a GM food if its DNA is altered to enhance a naturally occurring ingredient. For example, take a look at high-lycopene tomatoes. Lycopene is a pigment naturally found in tomatoes that has a superior ability to eliminate oxidative radicals that play a role in aging and many degenerative diseases. When the DNA of the tomato plant is altered to increase the amount of lycopene, then the tomato becomes a GM food.

Today, scientists are exploring the use of generic medications to create hypoallergenic foods. This is of particular interest to those who have severe allergies to peanuts, wheat or soy. The plan is to decrease the allergens in certain foods by identifying the protein responsible for the allergic reaction and genetically altering the plant to suppress that gene. Hypoallergenic soy products may be available within the next decade.

BENEFITS OF GENETICALLY MODIFIED FOODS

Many scientists believe that genetically modified foods have great potential to improve world health and nutrition, maintain the environment by decreasing pesticide use and provide novel foods that may actually help our bodies fight disease.

Every year more than 10 million children under the age of five die worldwide and at least 53% of those deaths can be partly attributed to malnutrition. Today, there are 790 million malnourished people in Africa, South America, the Far and Near East.

Some scientists and humanitarians believe that genetically modified foods can help alleviate starvation and disease in developing countries. “We have a lot of people to feed, and biotechnology is one of the answers,” says Gordon Conway, president of the Rockefeller Foundation. “Without adequate food supplies at reasonable prices, we will never solve world hunger.”

Closer to home, GM foods have the potential to provide longer shelf life, cheaper produce, tastier fruit, and more nutrient rich products to help promote good health and actually fight disease. The promise of decreased pesticide use is a positive step for the environment and could result in fewer toxins making their way into the soil, air and water. The ability to increase crop production could also result in less wilderness area being turned into farmland to meet the future food demands of our growing population.

POTENTIAL RISKS

As with all new technology, there is a legitimate fear of the unknown and we want to be certain that our food supply is safe—meaning proper testing of new products. As such, we have reason to demand that each new food be tested thoroughly and evaluated on its own merit.

Health Canada goes through a stringent safety assessment approved by the World Health Organization to ensure that each novel food is safe and nutritious. Despite this, it’s only been 10 years since GM foods have been tested in Canada. Some people think that’s not long enough.

Another concern is that allergens may be introduced into foods. For example, if a scientist inserts part of a fish gene into a strawberry plant to help the plant become more resistant to cold temperatures; it may be possible for those allergic to fish to be allergic to a new GM strawberry. While this is a theoretical example, it certainly illustrates the need for continued testing of new foods as they become available.

IT’S YOUR CHOICE

For years, farmers have been using natural selection processes to develop hardy crops that will grow in our often harsh Canadian environment. Proponents of genetically modified crops claim that scientists are merely helping to speed things along. Others say that tampering with Mother Nature could have serious consequences. Regardless, it’s hard to argue the benefit of offering developing countries the technology to grow superior nutritional crops in very challenging conditions.

JoAnne Buth, Vice President of Crop Production for the Canola Council of Canada, believes that biotechnology has a definite place in improving the value and safety of Canada’s food in the future. She says, “In terms of canola as a food product, we see opportunities to increase omega-3 content, improve stability which will reduce the amount of trans fats and several other potential health enhancements.”

In the end, it is a personal decision. If you want to avoid GM foods altogether, your best bet is to purchase only organically grown crops from your local supermarket. Today, there is no mandatory labelling program for GM foods in Canada, although experts agree, that is likely to change. Whatever you decide, there’s no doubt that the debate will continue for years to come. •

DO YOU KNOW THE DIFFERENCE?

Since GM foods are not labelled in the grocery store, sometimes it’s hard to tell which foods are genetically modified and which are not. Here’s a list of a few foods that are naturally good for you that you may have thought were genetically modified, but in fact are not.

Food Incorrectly Perceived                     How are they are really made
as Genetically Modified

Omega-3 eggs                                           Special diet for the chickens
Lactose-free milk                                       Addition of lactase enzyme
Sugar-free potatoes                                  Adjusting storage temperatures
Low-calorie,                                                Decreased sugar content, added
calcium-rich orange juice                        calcium