The Rice Stuff

Wild rice farmer Wayne Ptolemy harvests an ancient but unconventional crop

By Wes Lafortune

As you read these words there’s an excellent chance that Wayne Ptolemy will be harvesting an exceptional sort of crop in the Athabasca region of north central Alberta. It’s not unusual to see farmers bringing in their precious bounty as you drive northward to this agricultural enclave. What is out of the ordinary in this case is that Ptolemy isn’t out in the fields on a combine. He is at the controls of a flat-bottomed boat, specially designed to skim along the surface of a lake. You see, Ptolemy harvests wild rice for a living.

“I am a farmer,” Ptolemy proudly exclaims. “I had to fight several years to get that official designation from the government, but I did that.”

His crop might be unconventional for Alberta, but it is seeded, nurtured and harvested with the same dedication shown by farmers of more common crops. From his acreage located outside of the town of Athabasca, Ptolemy, his wife Alice, and partner Harvey Barrett run Lakeland Wild Rice Ltd., one of three wild rice harvesting operations in Alberta.

A combination of deep respect for the land and an attraction to odd sorts of agricultural jobs brought Ptolemy to this unusual occupation. One of nine children in northern British Columbia, Ptolemy cut lumber, raised wild boars, and planted ginseng before becoming interested in wild rice almost two decades ago. The inaugural yield in 1988 was 1,200 kilograms, (2,645 pounds) but the numbers have steadily increased ever since.

“We harvested 67,000 pounds (30,450 kilograms) of wild rice last year,” he says. “And this year I expect it to be even better.”

Also called Zizania aquatica, Canadian wild rice is actually a type of aquatic grass. The plant germinates best in shallow water, but can grow in pools as deep as 120 centimetres (four feet) or more. The tiny kernels begin to spring up from the muddy bottom of lakes and rivers in mid-May and are ready to harvest in September. After it pollinates in August, it takes from two to three weeks for the seed to mature.

Wild rice is native to the lakes and rivers of eastern and central Canada - from Ontario to Manitoba. According to the Alberta Wild Rice Growers Association, the first recorded seeding of this crop in the province was in 1981. At its height in the 1990s, there were more than 600 lakes seeded with it. That number has since declined, not because it isn’t popular, but due to the effort required in taking it from the lake to the dinner plate. “It’s really labour intensive,” Ptolemy says.

Wild rice is said to be the only cereal that is native to this country, and was integral to the diet of Aboriginal Peoples, particularly the Ojibwa of the Great Lakes region, who harvested it by knocking the kernels from the heads of the plants into a canoe using a pole or paddle. 

“I can do more in an hour in a boat than a guy in a canoe can do in a month,” says Ptolemy, referring to the traditional method. It was also known to be a favourite food among Canada’s early explorers. The nut-flavoured kernels have gone by several names, including water grass, wild oats, blackbird oats and manomin or ‘good berry’ by the Ojibwa. High in protein and low in fat, the grain is also a good source of calcium, potassium and vitamin B-3.

“It has kept many a voyageur and trapper alive,” adds Ptolemy.

Every day during harvest, Ptolemy drives out to one of five leaseholds he has on lakes in northern Alberta and gets in his boat, which is outfitted with a large air propeller. A metal bin with a mesh screen is attached to the front of the watercraft, and as he cruises the lake’s surface he catches the rice in the mesh. Once the mesh is full, the boat goes to shore where Ptolemy scoops the rice into large pails, and pours it into 30-kilogram bags. The precious cargo is then transported to a processing plant in Manitoba. From there it will be distributed across Canada. One of the best places to find it in Alberta is Whispering Hills Fabrics & Crafts in the town of Athabasca, packaged under the company name, Lakeland Wild Rice Ltd.

Year after year, Ptolemy carries out this time-intensive work: driving, boating, lugging, trucking and driving back. When he picks up one of the wild stalks with his strong, weatherworn hands, Ptolemy is gentle, even reverential; he knows he is harvesting a crop that dates back tens of thousands of years.

“It’s always been here,” says the proud rice farmer. “That’s why I like it so much.”

Hit the road

Athabasca, once known as Athabasca Landing, is a leisurely 90-minute drive from Edmonton north on Highway #2. The town is nestled within a wilderness landscape that attracts day-trippers and campers alike. The Athabasca region also has patches of wild blueberries, raspberries and saskatoons, and a couple of nearby u-pick fruit farms.

For a different kind of treat, take a stroll down the riverfront boardwalk in town, and admire the impressive perennial flowerbeds. If you’re in the mood for more vigorous exercise, you can mountain bike or run on the Muskeg trail located on the west side of the town. This extensive trail system winds through beautiful boreal forest and it’s an unforgettable experience.

After all of that activity, check out the restaurants. Athabascan cuisine ranges from home-style fare to fine dining. Three popular establishments are the Athabasca Burger Bar, the River House Eatery and The Fox Den Restaurant at the Athabasca Golf & Country Club.

Events scheduled for this fall include the Harvest Gold Old Time Fiddlers Weekend on September 1 and 2; the Athabasca Equine Endurance Ride on September 9; and the Lion’s Seniors Harvest Fest on October 28.

For more information call toll free 1-877-211-8669 or go to www.athabascacountry.com.